GAGGAN in Manila

As you all know by now, I am truly gaga over Gaggan! I featured his restaurant in Bangkok a few months ago all because I was truly smitten. The place is white with minimal decor amidst a homey setting. And, as it should be, because the food packs so much punch and extravagance that there really has to be that balance. Yup, Gaggan’s food speaks for itself and has a story and a life of its own. I’ve often wondered how one gets rated as a michelin star chef or becomes number one in Asia or the world and to this day, I haven’t figured it out or learned the secret. But I will tell you one thing, after hearing Gaggan speak to us over an intimate cooking demo while he was in Manila, I knew exactly why he is number one. And because of his fun and humble spirit, I have no doubt, his world ranking will just soar year after year.

He taught us about his “secret” charcoal dish and finally—how to make it. This left me intrigued when I dined at his Bangkok restaurant. Want to know what makes him tick? It’s his passion, drive and progressive spirit! He started and trained at the famed El Buli by master Ferran Adria. Gaggan was stationed at the lab and not the kitchen. He says “my pope is Ferran and and my bible, El Buli.” Ferran felt that all restaurants were beginning to copy his tapas and so he told Gaggan, “change the cuisine!” Gaggan being at the lab, did so and voila, the creation of the spherical olive began. Then, creation after creation followed.

He says his success will be “when every Indian restaurant that opens in India has been adapted from my cuisine.” He doesn’t believe that his success is being number one in Asia feels, “that should change every year.” His claim to fame he says “is when a high ranking michelin star chef asked him for the recipe of his charcoal batter.” To which, he gamely shared. Humble, generous and with the mindset of continuing his legacy of pioneering progressive techniques to simplify Indian food, I have no doubt about his continued rise. He will soon be opening his new curry house in Bangkok and I pray I get to try it.

gaggan with my friends and i. ana and kaye, along with woman of the hour cheryl tiu (center) who made gaggan’s visit possible

Gaggan and Cheryl have been friends and through her Cross Cultures by Cheryl Tiu campaign, she made all this possible. Grateful as well for the invites Cheryl extended to me for the demo and brunch with our very own Chef Chele of VASK. In Cheryl’s own words, this is how Cross Cultures came about. “When I was in Ethiopia earlier this June, I received messages like “What on earth are you doing there—charity work?” “Please come home in one piece, I heard there’s war there.” “Is there even food there?” “Isn’t it famine over there?”

And I realized there were so many misconceptions about the place because it was so far away—and unfortunately, not everything on the news is accurate. I mean, Ethiopia is one of the fastest growing economies today; it is so safe, people are so kind and polite, and not only is there food there—but it’s delicious! I wanted bring it to the Philippines and share this experience with Filipinos since we don’t have a proper Ethiopian restaurant here.

The idea of Cross Cultures kind of stemmed off from there. I realized that through food, we can bring together chefs and cooks, countries and continents, and hopefully create awareness, dispel misconceptions and preconceived notions, and help contribute in building a more global community.

Here were a few of my favourites during the Gaggan X Chef Chele brunch we had at VASK, Manila.